Week 9: From Amazonia to Lima

Monday

Again I wake up in the Amazon, but this time with a jolt. I'm tired of being locked up in this place; I'm determined to get out and about today. So at 7:15 I wander outside to observe as unfamiliar species go about their morning routines, one of which is an immature Snail Kite---Sweet lifer----.

Marissa comes to join me and chat as we wait for Spencer to rise. Meanwhile, endless waves of White-winged Parakeets fly overhead. Their morning voyage will be followed by a complementary evening retreat: the comings and goings of these tropical birds being a mystery to me.

Eventually he does, and Claire escorts us into town to find a pool. Once there, she leaves us to relax in the water and climb the towering series of observation platforms that provided a view of the Amazon River behind Iquitos' busy channels of life. 

We passed the hours at the pool's edge before we decided that it was time to hail a mototaxi back to Belén.

So I mentioned that Iquitos did not have many cars. Instead, it's populated by these three-wheeled mototaxis. They're like motorcycles attached to those little bike trailers that parents pull their children in. It's an exciting ride, especially with the three of us jammed into the bench. Since the taxis are so small, several can fit in one lane. Every launch from a stoplight is mayhem. You may find yourself inches from another moto or squeezing between a giant petrol truck and oncoming traffic. It's like living in an Amazonian blend of Tron, Tommy, and Mad Max.

Surviving the never-ending race, we again arrive at Belén. Each of us wants to make some purchases, so we wind our way back through, finding all that we want and lots more that we don't.

We then spend a few relaxed moments at Malecon.

Iquitos Crew (por Marissa)

Goofin' Off

An Amazon sunset provided our free, God-given entertainment on the boat ride back to Padre Cocha.

Every One is Unique

Back in our neck of the woods, we hit up the main strip to grab dinner. I still wasn't in quite the eating mood, but I tried my best to chip away at a hamburger. As we watched beetles make crash landings on the porch of the establishment, two boys approached and began to make conversation in English. Patrick, the more outgoing of the two, immediately jumped into his rehearsed guide presentation, dropping facts about the Amazon, pointing us to the nearest facilities, and asking us about ourselves. 

His buddy pretty much stayed silent all the while. After Patrick's presentation, we commended his English speaking abilities and finished up our dinner. 

They ended up hanging around to walk with us wherever we were heading. So the five of us ambled down the road. Patrick intently absorbed all of Spencer's English expressions, one of which was "I'm single and ready to mingle." His buddy Harley hung back with Marissa and me to speak Spanish. He spoke of family, Padre Cocha, spirituality/religion, and other facets of Amazon life. 

They fared us well at our stop, and we parted ways, thinking about how friendly people in this part of Perú are. 

Four life birds today: STRIATED HERON IS WORLD #700!!!

Tuesday

Our last full day in Iquitos; Marissa and I decide to make the long journey to a reserve on the south side of Iquitos. We rise fairly early to make the most of the day.

While brushing my teeth in the morning drizzle, I look up to see young and handsome Mr. Snail Kite again.

Such a Specialized Bill

The two of us push through the light rain to arrive at the muddy port, where I witness a bird like I've never seen before.

Red-breasted Meadowlark

Stunned, I board the boat and head for Bella Vista Nanay. Next we hop on the bus for the long haul to the airport. We're really just winging it, but we have a vague idea of where we are going. So we get off near the airport and hail a moto for Quistococha.

It feels good to have some fresh air from the open-cab taxi. Well, it feels good when you cover your eyes from all of the dust that is so eager to leave the road's surface.

Once we hit the ground though, I recall my state of animation, which is lacking. Nonetheless, we pay, enter, and wind down the paved path to the dolphin enclosures. Along the pathway are reconstructions of Amazonian myths with little descriptions. 

I blow right past them though, feeling drawn to some sort of relief. 

We join the group gawking at the pink dolphin doing tricks in return for a little food. Time after time its trainer sends it off, promising "una vez más!" 

Then we head to the Arapaima pen, but see no activity and head onwards. Next is the Giant River Otter, whose personality was infectious. He made laps around his watery enclosure and vocalized repeatedly.

What I remember next is some tiny deer, some Agoutis, some turtles, and some Capybaras. But by then we had spotted the lagoon, and our time perusing the enclosures was ticking. As we cut straight for the water and sandy beach, a brown puff flew in front of us. I'm thinking "that's an odd way for a dove to behave" when I realize that it's a freaking Pygmy Owl. Several feet away, below eye level, just looking around. Back from his sally, I snapped some pics.

Much Smaller than it Looks

That and some stunning butterflies (well, we thought so; they're actually diurnal moths) pepped me up a bit, but I still crashed as hard as a paragliding elephant onto that beach, where I laid until it was time to go.

Marissa and I then motored back to town, thinking that we were going to rendezvous yet again with Ammi, but we did not. Instead, we chilled out in a juice bar with A/C until our next commitment.

Our next commitment was to meet up with Spence and Claire at Bella Vista Nanay for an evening cruise on the Amazon. But not before we spotted an unexpected Peregrine Falcon circling overhead. The hemispherical exchange is almost complete.

Peacefulness

We were also dolphin hunting. 

But first we just really motored around. We saw the back side of Iquitos, where an extensive lumber yard displays some of Amazonia's finest. And I just couldn't help but think back to something we saw at the mariposario: "The Amazon is the lungs of the Earth; 20% of atmospheric oxygen passes through its trees." Too bad some of those trees have to pass through the market...

Circling back, we observed a combine harvesting rice on an island between the Amazon and the Nanay. Then we broke into open water and cut the engine. The captain began to knock on the stern of the boat, hoping to attract these mostly-blind dolphins.

Some began to surface and then I saw one just launch out of the water, unprovoked. What a wild looking beast, almost neapolitan: 1/2 gray, 1/2 pink.

A little more cruising and then we headed back to Bella Vista. The three students unloaded while Claire continued on with el capitan. We found a nice restaurant and took our time as the sky opened up. But we couldn't wait in there all night, so we exited in the light rain. 

What followed was a very memorable final experience in Iquitos. Marissa hailed a cab and bargained for a cheap ride. What we were treated to was worth volumes more than we payed. 

I huddled in to seek shelter form the rain, but quickly spotted some indications that we were in for a ride. I made eye contact with Spencer and we both remarked "this thing is rigged to bump." Shortly thereafter, the moto burst into "Another One Bites the Dust." As the mashup continued, we sang and danced (as best we could) along. Our underglow painted every puddle in a neon hue.

Unfortunately, the pimped ride ended when we reached Bella Vista Nanay. Back at Padre Cocha, we packed and took it easy in observance of the early departure.

Adios Madre Selva

4 Amazonian life birds today.

Wednesday

HALLOWEEN

And boy were we in for a unique one.

Up fairly early, we split, leaving Claire and her odd habitation behind. Leaving Padre Cocha, we passed the elementary school, were parents took pride in their meticulously costumed chilluns. Flying pencils, or more accurately Fork-tailed Palm Swifts, buzzed overhead as we made our grand departure.

We took the long way to the airport via bus, but by some miracle we did make it. 

Before long, we were in the air. Below us stretched the mighty Amazon jungle, with its infinite oxbows. Hydrology from the air is interesting; the coloration of the water is dependent on the state of the flow. Within the oxbows, settling had occurred, and the water took on a tannic look. In the mainstream, meanwhile, suspended particles contributed to that milky look that the Amazon and its tributaries are known for.

Sinuosity

Teardrop Oxbow

It wasn't long before we were in Lima, but it was for long that we were in Lima. You see, the airline booked our connecting flight with no time to spare, and it was impossible to pass through Lima security and make it on time to our next flight.

Fortunately, LATAM understood, and not only did they understand, but that felt like they owed us something. Something like two meal vouchers, a transportation voucher, and a hotel stay.

We burned through our meal vouchers as we observed and commentated on the festive costume wearers in the airport.

Then it was time to make the commute to the hotel. I asked the driver how the hotel was, and his response was super modest. We're talking the 4-star Atton at San Isidro. We were not properly dressed or behaved to be put up in a place like this, but what the hell.

En route, I spotted some new Lima birds, including the pet shop worthy Saffron Finch. I had previously thought that the Greenish-Yellow Finch of the Sierra was like a lemon with wings. I must demote it to a flying yellow bird. The Saffron Finch is the true lemon with wings.

We also ran into the Keymaker.

Did you say Deja-Vû?

References aside, this part of Lima was surprising. I mean all I had heard from Cusqueños was that Lima was nasty, full of trash, and dangerous. Maybe so, but we never got to see that. We passed large and inviting parks, clean streets, and large buildings. Everything that I saw had a SoCal feel. In class the following week, we discussed how Miraflores and San Isidro were not exactly representative of the metropolis.

The hotel was too unbelievable to describe. And they gave us three separate rooms with twin queens and an awesome bathroom! I bathed like I'd never get the chance again. But I was still feeling really slouchy, so I missed out on dinner and drinks with Marissa and Spencer. Instead, I watched Spanish adaptations of the House of Wax, Gremlins, and Poltergeist.

Hotel View

3 Lima lifers.

Thursday

A tacked on day to our trip, we should have been home by now. But none of us were complaining. It's the first of November, and I'm in denial. Did Iquitos really happen? Are we really in a **** hotel? Has it all been just a fever dream?

We took advantage of our free hotel breakfast, which was delicious, and met our ride outside. This time we made our flight and all.

Then we were in Cusco again. Farewell buddies, it's been a wild ride.

I gotta get better. No more putting it off, time to go to the doctor.

So Papa Jesús and I head to a clinic, get some meds, and grab lunch.

Friday

Really from Thursday afternoon to Sunday I spent my time recovering, lying in bed, and watching movies. I did have to suffer three days of butt shots. That can't be the only way to get that fluid into my body; it just can't be...

Saturday

More recovery, sleep, movies.

Sunday

The eve of reality, my last day of rest.

End of Week Lifer Total: 11