Monday
Uneventful...
Tuesday
We had another film viewing at school: También la Lluvia. It was a good rewatch for me.
But I've been feeling a little under the weather since Machu Picchu. Back home, Papa Jesús encouraged me to chew some ginger root. That was a strong and unusual sensation.
Wednesday
Routine.
Thursday
A month and a half of planning (most of which involved keeping our plans open) is beginning to manifest itself. Time to hop on a plane with two undaunted students, hardened and bonded by pizza challenges. Originally we were greater in number, but only three of us had the heart to pull through.
The plan is to head to the department of Loreto, in far northeastern Perú. Here lies the city of Iquitos, the largest city in the world that is not accessible by car (only by boat or plane).
In our case, it's accessible by plane. First from Cusco to Lima and then onwards to Iquitos. Cusco security was so lax; I passed through with a multitool and a full bottle of water.
Needless to say my knife found a new home in the Lima airport security safe holding.
Flying out of Lima was really wild. Fog from the cool Humboldt Current blanketed the city's expanse. Light generated from inward and produced a warm, glowing dome. In some places, visibility was clear, and I saw the surface of the Earth like a NASA night map.
The coast was laced in gold strings of unobtrusive light. Where civilization met the infiniteness of the sea there was a clean demarcation. Cool darkness and warm, inviting light. All from overhead.
Dreamy Lima
Shortly thereafter we were in Iquitos: Amazonia. That night we took a long taxi ride in one of the few cars in Iquitos (I'll explain later) to the far northern part of the city, Bella Vista Nanay. Here, we encountered our host and took a night cruise to our new home, Padre Cocha. Claire made sure to point out how tired I was as she welcomed us to her home.
Friday
A day of orientation.
Our gang of three took a stroll down the dirt road in the morning.
Later, Claire showed us the ropes. We went into Iquitos, learned how to hop on the boat, and navigated to the city's own Plaza de Armas. For breakfast, we ate at this Texas restaurant (The Yellow Rose of Texas) that attempts to harken to the Lone Star State, but uses some odd english phrasing that brings you back to reality. And the bar stools were pivoting saddles.
As we enjoyed our light breakfasts, Ammi (my host sister who now lives in Iquitos) dropped by to say hello and collect a package that my host parents sent with me. She is super busy working at a girl's home, so it was the only time that we met up.
Our gang of three took a stroll down the dirt road in the morning.
Orange-backed Troupial
Later, Claire showed us the ropes. We went into Iquitos, learned how to hop on the boat, and navigated to the city's own Plaza de Armas. For breakfast, we ate at this Texas restaurant (The Yellow Rose of Texas) that attempts to harken to the Lone Star State, but uses some odd english phrasing that brings you back to reality. And the bar stools were pivoting saddles.
As we enjoyed our light breakfasts, Ammi (my host sister who now lives in Iquitos) dropped by to say hello and collect a package that my host parents sent with me. She is super busy working at a girl's home, so it was the only time that we met up.
From here we went to the renowned Belén market. It was perhaps one of the most oxymoronic places that I have ever experienced. Belén directly translates to Bethlehem. Although I have never been to the Middle East, there are several key distinctions that I imagine exist between the two. They may share a name, but I doubt Bethlehem is comprised of makeshift storefronts where vendors offer mounted fish and butterflies, medicinal plants, clothing, automotive odds and ends, raw meat, produce, and children's shoes. I also doubt that the streets are full of valiant and conditioned Black Vultures.
We followed Claire's swift lead as we traipsed across expanses of stinky sludge and fish vertebrae. Eventually we wound on down witch's street. If anyone doubts the myriad applications of plants in medicine in Perú, I recommend you take a walk down this avenue.
Our foreigner senses thoroughly perplexed, we headed back to Padre Cocha for the evening.
Once at the house, I attempted to take a nap. The structure was a mostly open-air house with several rooms, a large communal space, and a separate bunkhouse. The rooms offered protection from above, but the outside conditions dominated inside as well. We slept with bug nets and the option of a fan. As I tried to doze off, otherworldly Cacique sounds, noisy chickens, and neighbors' voices seeped into my room like an overpowering scent. What an interesting nap environment.
A respectable 18 lifers on the day.
We followed Claire's swift lead as we traipsed across expanses of stinky sludge and fish vertebrae. Eventually we wound on down witch's street. If anyone doubts the myriad applications of plants in medicine in Perú, I recommend you take a walk down this avenue.
Our foreigner senses thoroughly perplexed, we headed back to Padre Cocha for the evening.
After a Big Day
A respectable 18 lifers on the day.
Saturday
Late morning we departed the camp for the Mariposario, a butterfly farm/animal rehabilitation area within walking distance. It almost felt like a reverse zoo: we were fenced in and the other animals were roaming about. A guide greeted us and began to walk us through the process of raising butterflies. Before long, we were traded to an Australian dude who was volunteering.
The Australian dude really only wanted to talk about digging up worms. I shouldn't be unfair though. He was a nice guy with good intentions.
On the way out, a Howler Monkey made sure to put on a memorable display. The sounds were so guttural and bizarre that it made me feel a bit sick.
From here, we took the long way back to "town." The intensity of the sun compromised the intensity of our vigor. We ambled verrrry slowly down the streets, stepping aside for the occasional motor car and conversing with local kids.
Back on the main strip, we hung out in a scenic tree and enjoyed our new laid-back tropical lifestyle.
Man, birds here are something else. They're so beautiful, and the diversity of iris color is remarkable. I've never seen shades of blue, tangerine, and yellow like this. All in the eye of a bird.
We ended up going into town that night. On the Malecón boulevard (the main riverfront stretch of Iquitos), we gawked at street performers. Lots of magicians. The general atmosphere was electrifying and exciting, but as we neared our recommended restaurant nausea set in.
I wasn't able to enjoy dinner alongside Marissa and Spencer; I was sprawled out on a sofa in the restaurant. The extremely kind staff took it upon themselves to nurse me back to health. As Marissa and Spencer observed, everyone in Perú is a doctor.
It was the herbal tea that really got my stomach up in arms. But then the waitress brought some pills from a local pharmacy that would stop me up for days.
Just 2 life birds today.
The Australian dude really only wanted to talk about digging up worms. I shouldn't be unfair though. He was a nice guy with good intentions.
Pocket Monkey
Assertive Macaws
A Jaguar's Mesmerizing Pattern
Tapir: A Gentle Giant
On the way out, a Howler Monkey made sure to put on a memorable display. The sounds were so guttural and bizarre that it made me feel a bit sick.
From here, we took the long way back to "town." The intensity of the sun compromised the intensity of our vigor. We ambled verrrry slowly down the streets, stepping aside for the occasional motor car and conversing with local kids.
Back on the main strip, we hung out in a scenic tree and enjoyed our new laid-back tropical lifestyle.
Chivi Vireo Shares his Tree
Man, birds here are something else. They're so beautiful, and the diversity of iris color is remarkable. I've never seen shades of blue, tangerine, and yellow like this. All in the eye of a bird.
Yellow-rumped Cacique
We ended up going into town that night. On the Malecón boulevard (the main riverfront stretch of Iquitos), we gawked at street performers. Lots of magicians. The general atmosphere was electrifying and exciting, but as we neared our recommended restaurant nausea set in.
I wasn't able to enjoy dinner alongside Marissa and Spencer; I was sprawled out on a sofa in the restaurant. The extremely kind staff took it upon themselves to nurse me back to health. As Marissa and Spencer observed, everyone in Perú is a doctor.
It was the herbal tea that really got my stomach up in arms. But then the waitress brought some pills from a local pharmacy that would stop me up for days.
Just 2 life birds today.
Sunday
A lost day. I was feeling absolutely miserable at this point. I just laid in bed, sweated, and dreamed the whole day. At one point I tried to read a bit of a paperback fiction book, but I only made it about 10 pages. Fever dreaming in the heat: I hope that it actually doesn't get worse here every day...
20 lifers this week.
20 lifers this week.
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