Monday
Sick to the stomach. I wonder if it has anything to do with that egg sandwich that I ate yesterday afternoon? Papa Jesús made it for me Saturday morning.
Cusco is full of surprises
Tuesday
ISA has been very sentimental lately, and I almost feel like it's on purpose. First with Thanksgiving, then we had a super sappy class where we watched Calle 13's Latinoamérica and fell in love with latin culture again. The experience is coming to its culmination, and it's difficult to let go.
Then, this evening, we watched Diarios de Motocicleta, a film about Che Guevara:
What a damn good movie with a lot of interesting lessons. And it was perfectly timed: lots of parallels with the past and the future.
The Machu Picchu scene in particular was worth mentioning. They did it properly. My idea of a good trip to this site was well represented by the movie.
Today is also Mama Empe's birthday. Between classes, I had to run to the market to get her something. Man, I can't think of the last time I saw a Hyundai CVX Intercooler.
Damn
That night, we had a chill birthday celebration. A few friends, family, and three different cakes.
Wednesday
A bunch of school in prep for the trip. I couldn't make soccer that night, and it bummed me out. But sacrifices had to be made.
I was Made for Lovin' You on the bus brought me back to my early days in Cusco.
Thursday
Had to go to my first class at 7:30 to give a presentation.
But then I realized a dream.
Before leaving for Perú, I was looking through a world birding hotspots book and learned about Manu National Park. Globally considered one of the most diverse concentrations of birds in the world... How could I miss that?
I wouldn't. I would solicit the guidance and expertise of Nestor once more.
He and I were to meet at a bus station in San Jeronimo at 10:30. We did so, but we ended up waiting around a bunch before the car left. The driver was in no real hurry.
But it was a really beautiful day in Cusco.
The passengers in the van joked about the DIY mounted TV. Put on a movie!
Instead, Nestor came through when the front seat dudes asked if anyone had music. People in Perú carry their music in little USB's that are conveniently popped into the radio. Nestor's music was not quite what I expected. A blend of 80's Peruvian and western music. A little Bee Gees, a little George Michael, some Toto. I was just waiting for Whip-It and the Safety Dance to come on.
But I couldn't wait all day, so I went to sleep.
The highway was not as I envisioned. It was mostly one-laned and all dirt. Real rough, not very safe. We stopped in Puertocambo for lunch, but I was too sick to eat. Nestor's picks had concluded, and the driver took control of the music. Electronic Huayno?? No thank you.
Back in the van, back to sleep.
But when I woke up. Man, when I woke up. I swear we were in a different world. Nestor looked at me, and I said "Otro mundo." He nodded and said "Otra planeta." He was so right. The Cloud Forest
Whoa. REALLY steep drop-offs were shrouded by fog, really messing with my perception. The landslides were obvious enough though...
Finally we disembarked at a seemingly arbitrary spot to "begin our day." Visibility was low, and vapor enclosed us. I wasn't sure how we were going to be able to spot anything, but, between gaps in the waves of water vapor, we started to see some action. A Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager's vivid reds nearly parted the sea of cloud. Andean Parakeets and Guans spiced the pot.
We weren't on the road long before we turned down a side road. Nestor motioned for me to pull the strung up sandal that formed a sort of Andean doorbell. A dude named John greeted us, and Nestor began to negotiate.
You see, most people arrange for their arrival. It's a whole organized deal. Nestor made a big point of us improvising and backpacking without any sort of fixed agenda. I guess he was trying to gain respect or pity.
It kind of worked. I mean we got a bunkhouse, but it would end up being the most expensive stay of the weekend. And nobody else was staying there.
Wayqecha Lodge
We took advantage of the little daylight that we had left, walking an unsuccessful trail before being captivated by a male Long-tailed Sylph's display of aggression. It looked as if it were sending electrical pulses through its neon-rigged body. Almost like bioluminescence, but in a bird.
Shortly thereafter, the rains (which are apparently a reliable nightly phenomenon) set in. We headed for shelter, counted our species, and ate our dinner. That night, Nestor and I shared a bunkhouse. I was out in a flash.
6 lifers on this first taste of the unknown.
But then I realized a dream.
Before leaving for Perú, I was looking through a world birding hotspots book and learned about Manu National Park. Globally considered one of the most diverse concentrations of birds in the world... How could I miss that?
I wouldn't. I would solicit the guidance and expertise of Nestor once more.
He and I were to meet at a bus station in San Jeronimo at 10:30. We did so, but we ended up waiting around a bunch before the car left. The driver was in no real hurry.
But it was a really beautiful day in Cusco.
The passengers in the van joked about the DIY mounted TV. Put on a movie!
Instead, Nestor came through when the front seat dudes asked if anyone had music. People in Perú carry their music in little USB's that are conveniently popped into the radio. Nestor's music was not quite what I expected. A blend of 80's Peruvian and western music. A little Bee Gees, a little George Michael, some Toto. I was just waiting for Whip-It and the Safety Dance to come on.
But I couldn't wait all day, so I went to sleep.
The highway was not as I envisioned. It was mostly one-laned and all dirt. Real rough, not very safe. We stopped in Puertocambo for lunch, but I was too sick to eat. Nestor's picks had concluded, and the driver took control of the music. Electronic Huayno?? No thank you.
Back in the van, back to sleep.
But when I woke up. Man, when I woke up. I swear we were in a different world. Nestor looked at me, and I said "Otro mundo." He nodded and said "Otra planeta." He was so right. The Cloud Forest
Whoa. REALLY steep drop-offs were shrouded by fog, really messing with my perception. The landslides were obvious enough though...
Finally we disembarked at a seemingly arbitrary spot to "begin our day." Visibility was low, and vapor enclosed us. I wasn't sure how we were going to be able to spot anything, but, between gaps in the waves of water vapor, we started to see some action. A Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager's vivid reds nearly parted the sea of cloud. Andean Parakeets and Guans spiced the pot.
We weren't on the road long before we turned down a side road. Nestor motioned for me to pull the strung up sandal that formed a sort of Andean doorbell. A dude named John greeted us, and Nestor began to negotiate.
You see, most people arrange for their arrival. It's a whole organized deal. Nestor made a big point of us improvising and backpacking without any sort of fixed agenda. I guess he was trying to gain respect or pity.
It kind of worked. I mean we got a bunkhouse, but it would end up being the most expensive stay of the weekend. And nobody else was staying there.
Wayqecha Lodge
We took advantage of the little daylight that we had left, walking an unsuccessful trail before being captivated by a male Long-tailed Sylph's display of aggression. It looked as if it were sending electrical pulses through its neon-rigged body. Almost like bioluminescence, but in a bird.
Shortly thereafter, the rains (which are apparently a reliable nightly phenomenon) set in. We headed for shelter, counted our species, and ate our dinner. That night, Nestor and I shared a bunkhouse. I was out in a flash.
6 lifers on this first taste of the unknown.
Friday
It's before 5 am. I hear no alarm but Nestor preparing for the day. We leave the bunk looking like two earth-toned jockeys.
Nestor's lead
Not much going on around the lodge, so it's back up the highway, where I'm showered by lifers. The morning's progression is marked by the advance of the cloud front from the valley and our call to eat breakfast.
The day breaks in the Cloud Forest
The road is productive, and we log 20 species before breakfast, including some show-stoppers like Hooded Mountain-Tanager and Golden-collared Tanager.
Breakfast at 7. It's the first taste of bacon that I've had in 3 months, and it's a good omen for the day. As is this perfect Shining Sunbeam as we make our exit via El Trocha Zorro:
Aptly Named
More specialties show themselves up close and personal as we ease downhill.
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager: note the research band
The trail is closed in the low canopy, but we add many species. And the further we continue downhill, the less the trees are bound in a dwarf state.
The idea is to connect with the highway, but the trail is in need of some maintenance. We're forced to improvise and exit to the highway, which was exciting.
On the highway, birding is generally easier. This stretch ended up being one of my favorites; we saw some gems. We also heard some gems. Passing through slopes scarred by violent landslides, we tuned into the bizarre song of the Andean Solitaire, which recalls the squeaks of a playground swingset.
Nestor heading into Middle Earth
Danger: slippery when wet
I couldn't resist scaling a small hill that would afford some nice views. Nestor offered no opposition, so we climbed the loose rock and sill until we reached the prominence.
Along the highway's numerous bends were tunnels and lots of nice flocks. All kinds of weird and fresh taxa came to satiate our visual thirst. With each new one, I would signal Nestor's attention. His response would be something like: "Ahhh, disfruta este momento" or "Mira esta belleza."
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant
(Gould's) Collared Inca
Barred Fruiteater
Masked Trogon
Eventually we spotted a vacant van that we would solicit to bring us a little closer to Amazonia. So we bummed a ride. I would say that we hitchhiked, but I had to pay for the ride. Still, this trip is showing some crazy parallels to Diarios de Motocicleta. Backpacking and hopping in random vehicles when the chance presents itself. I mentioned this to Nestor and he just let out a big laugh as he recalled them trashing the 1939 Norton.
We didn't ride for long, but of course I got sick. But what didn't help was the terrible 80's mashup that had George Michael and three rounds of Take on Me. People down here love that song. Just imagine what I must have missed while dozing.
We stopped at a much lower site, which was more familiar habitat-wise to me. A scenic waterfall marked our lunch site.
Avifauna resembled that of Aquas Calientes. Black Phoebes and White-capped Dippers played in the waters below as a hen Andean Cock-of-the-Rock scaled the rockface nearby.
Many lifers filled our dusky walk to the next home, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Hell even Nestor saw some new ones. Apu Kañay Huay reassured us that we were in the right place in this world.
It was dark by the time we got to this world-renowned lodge. Nestor's masterful negotiations continued. Half the price of the previous night, and we get separate rooms. No dinner though...
As we revised our totals, the large group of Japanese folks and their guides quickly and excitedly exited the comedor. A lodge guide had called in an owl with playback, and it was time to attempt to spotlight it.
Rufescent Screech-Owl
Back inside, Nestor signaled for me to come to the back. He and I were treated to dinner with his buddies out of sight of the "typical" guests. It was awesomely authentic. We shot the shit as we enjoyed our soup. Formalities aside, these are real people with real things to say.
So far, I'm liking the organization (or lack thereof) of the trip. We're doing it authentic: no agency, wandering Carretera Manu, showing up at Albergues to stay the night. And we don't get that red-carpet treatment that puts up a barrier between you and the employees. We're just friends sharing meals and stories.
That night, I intended to review my Birds of Perú PDF, but I crashed super hard and slept like a Capybara.
The life birds are picking up: 28 on this last day of November.
It's before 5 am. I hear no alarm but Nestor preparing for the day. We leave the bunk looking like two earth-toned jockeys.
Nestor's lead
Not much going on around the lodge, so it's back up the highway, where I'm showered by lifers. The morning's progression is marked by the advance of the cloud front from the valley and our call to eat breakfast.
The day breaks in the Cloud Forest
The road is productive, and we log 20 species before breakfast, including some show-stoppers like Hooded Mountain-Tanager and Golden-collared Tanager.
Breakfast at 7. It's the first taste of bacon that I've had in 3 months, and it's a good omen for the day. As is this perfect Shining Sunbeam as we make our exit via El Trocha Zorro:
Aptly Named
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager: note the research band
The trail is closed in the low canopy, but we add many species. And the further we continue downhill, the less the trees are bound in a dwarf state.
The idea is to connect with the highway, but the trail is in need of some maintenance. We're forced to improvise and exit to the highway, which was exciting.
On the highway, birding is generally easier. This stretch ended up being one of my favorites; we saw some gems. We also heard some gems. Passing through slopes scarred by violent landslides, we tuned into the bizarre song of the Andean Solitaire, which recalls the squeaks of a playground swingset.
Nestor heading into Middle Earth
Danger: slippery when wet
I couldn't resist scaling a small hill that would afford some nice views. Nestor offered no opposition, so we climbed the loose rock and sill until we reached the prominence.
Along the highway's numerous bends were tunnels and lots of nice flocks. All kinds of weird and fresh taxa came to satiate our visual thirst. With each new one, I would signal Nestor's attention. His response would be something like: "Ahhh, disfruta este momento" or "Mira esta belleza."
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant
(Gould's) Collared Inca
Barred Fruiteater
Masked Trogon
Eventually we spotted a vacant van that we would solicit to bring us a little closer to Amazonia. So we bummed a ride. I would say that we hitchhiked, but I had to pay for the ride. Still, this trip is showing some crazy parallels to Diarios de Motocicleta. Backpacking and hopping in random vehicles when the chance presents itself. I mentioned this to Nestor and he just let out a big laugh as he recalled them trashing the 1939 Norton.
We didn't ride for long, but of course I got sick. But what didn't help was the terrible 80's mashup that had George Michael and three rounds of Take on Me. People down here love that song. Just imagine what I must have missed while dozing.
We stopped at a much lower site, which was more familiar habitat-wise to me. A scenic waterfall marked our lunch site.
Avifauna resembled that of Aquas Calientes. Black Phoebes and White-capped Dippers played in the waters below as a hen Andean Cock-of-the-Rock scaled the rockface nearby.
Many lifers filled our dusky walk to the next home, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Hell even Nestor saw some new ones. Apu Kañay Huay reassured us that we were in the right place in this world.
It was dark by the time we got to this world-renowned lodge. Nestor's masterful negotiations continued. Half the price of the previous night, and we get separate rooms. No dinner though...
As we revised our totals, the large group of Japanese folks and their guides quickly and excitedly exited the comedor. A lodge guide had called in an owl with playback, and it was time to attempt to spotlight it.
Rufescent Screech-Owl
Back inside, Nestor signaled for me to come to the back. He and I were treated to dinner with his buddies out of sight of the "typical" guests. It was awesomely authentic. We shot the shit as we enjoyed our soup. Formalities aside, these are real people with real things to say.
So far, I'm liking the organization (or lack thereof) of the trip. We're doing it authentic: no agency, wandering Carretera Manu, showing up at Albergues to stay the night. And we don't get that red-carpet treatment that puts up a barrier between you and the employees. We're just friends sharing meals and stories.
That night, I intended to review my Birds of Perú PDF, but I crashed super hard and slept like a Capybara.
The life birds are picking up: 28 on this last day of November.
Saturday
¡Feliz diciembre!
The most productive day of the trip, bird-wise.
Again we rise early. It's refreshing to arise before the morning chorus. That way you don't get the feeling that you've missed anything. I spend the first few minutes watching the feeding station out back, watching Hummers buzz around and looking forward to seeing their colors in full morning light.
Nestor joins me as we walk up the road, where we pick up a ton of Tanagers. Among them are some real beauties like Golden Tanager and Orange-eared Tanager. Down by the river, Nestor spots a Sunbittern, my first since Puerto Maldonado.
Back at the lodge, a mammal assault is underway. Capuchins are covering the trees and bamboo by the lodge, making racket and scaring off other stuff. Two Agoutis and a Bolivian Squirrel stand undaunted.
Tool-using
Lil' Agouti
Bolivian Squirrel
Stunner
With the departure of the Japanese group, the Monkeys lost their restraint. Capuchins came rushing to the lodge, jumping up and down on the retracted screens, biting the screens, tearing the bug netting, breaking branches on trees, and making rushes to the table to steal handfuls of butter.
Butter Lips
Nice to meet you, I'm George
After our breakfast, we headed on down the road, beginning a new checklist. We cross over the river once more, which is the purest I've seen while in Perú. It crystalline white waters reflect the expectations that I had of the wild jungle.
The walk started with some activity, but it quickly died out. For miles, we literally did not detect a bird. Our attention shifted to bugs due to necessity. When the birds aren't distracting you, you can actually see some cool stuff.
Clear-winged Butterfly
We stopped to snack on fruit and continued on a little bit further. Then it was time to hail another car. This one just seemed to be a father with his two sons. We packed in and continued our descent.
I kind of dozed off. Then we disembarked. And it was a wise move because everything changed. Lifers rained down like confetti at a national championship ceremony.
Long-tailed Tyrant
Speckled Chachalaca
We had descended to a more familiar Amazonian elevation. Avifauna overlapped with Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado, and it was nice to get some of these guys on my Cusco list.
From here on out, the terrain was more or less planar. Overwhelmed by this amount of activity, we made our way into Patria, where the rain finally caught up with us. But not before a migrating group of Swallow-tailed Kites passed overhead. I really wanted to see this species, mis paisanos, in Perú.
Searching for a roadside shelter, Nestor pointed out a pair of Purple Honeycreepers, which shocked me so deeply that I'm surprised to have remained standing. It's not very often that you see a bird with bright yellow legs and a royal coat of feathers.
We did find somewhere to duck under and enjoy our lunches as the rain fell. And this was my favorite moment of the trip. Eating a nice lunch and observing the continuous loop of bird activity unfolding before our eyes. The Kites made another appearance among the hundreds of swallows and swifts. Nestor admitted that he wished he were a swift, myself a swallow. Other more grounded species appeared periodically, and we made sure to point them out.
Eventually we moved on, but we didn't make it very far before the rain pushed us under another shelter. We observed some more species from there, but capitalized on a passing van when the time came.
We rode just a bit more, and a new species greeted us upon our departure.
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
But the rain wouldn't let off. So our walk to civilization was wet and relatively uneventful, save for a run-in with some cattle and dogs.
Did you forget that it was the rainforest?
Before long, we reached a lodge that Nestor was familiar with: Bambu Lodge. Asking if I wanted to check it out, he ducked his way through a small trail entrance and towards a house. He approached singing in Quechua and was greeted by some old pals. We peered through the door and got in on their Fast and Furious 8 viewing. Nestor had seen the movie and remarked on how good it was.
After a while, Nestor asked if this was good, and I said sure, why not? He worked his magic again, and we were staying in separate full bunkhouses for the night for 1/4 of the price of the first night. They were neat bamboo structures with bathrooms, showers, beds, etc. Maybe I was foolish to not photograph our accommodations, but my mind was streamlined on the birding.
Which we did until nightfall. Lots of impressive hummers frequented the feeding stations, rounding out my day's lifers.
When night fell, we made our way for the guide/resident dining hall. While guests dined separately, we joked and chatted like old friends.
End of day lifer total: 34!
¡Feliz diciembre!
The most productive day of the trip, bird-wise.
Again we rise early. It's refreshing to arise before the morning chorus. That way you don't get the feeling that you've missed anything. I spend the first few minutes watching the feeding station out back, watching Hummers buzz around and looking forward to seeing their colors in full morning light.
Nestor joins me as we walk up the road, where we pick up a ton of Tanagers. Among them are some real beauties like Golden Tanager and Orange-eared Tanager. Down by the river, Nestor spots a Sunbittern, my first since Puerto Maldonado.
Back at the lodge, a mammal assault is underway. Capuchins are covering the trees and bamboo by the lodge, making racket and scaring off other stuff. Two Agoutis and a Bolivian Squirrel stand undaunted.
Tool-using
Lil' Agouti
Bolivian Squirrel
Stunner
With the departure of the Japanese group, the Monkeys lost their restraint. Capuchins came rushing to the lodge, jumping up and down on the retracted screens, biting the screens, tearing the bug netting, breaking branches on trees, and making rushes to the table to steal handfuls of butter.
Butter Lips
Nice to meet you, I'm George
After our breakfast, we headed on down the road, beginning a new checklist. We cross over the river once more, which is the purest I've seen while in Perú. It crystalline white waters reflect the expectations that I had of the wild jungle.
The walk started with some activity, but it quickly died out. For miles, we literally did not detect a bird. Our attention shifted to bugs due to necessity. When the birds aren't distracting you, you can actually see some cool stuff.
Clear-winged Butterfly
We stopped to snack on fruit and continued on a little bit further. Then it was time to hail another car. This one just seemed to be a father with his two sons. We packed in and continued our descent.
I kind of dozed off. Then we disembarked. And it was a wise move because everything changed. Lifers rained down like confetti at a national championship ceremony.
Long-tailed Tyrant
Speckled Chachalaca
We had descended to a more familiar Amazonian elevation. Avifauna overlapped with Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado, and it was nice to get some of these guys on my Cusco list.
From here on out, the terrain was more or less planar. Overwhelmed by this amount of activity, we made our way into Patria, where the rain finally caught up with us. But not before a migrating group of Swallow-tailed Kites passed overhead. I really wanted to see this species, mis paisanos, in Perú.
Searching for a roadside shelter, Nestor pointed out a pair of Purple Honeycreepers, which shocked me so deeply that I'm surprised to have remained standing. It's not very often that you see a bird with bright yellow legs and a royal coat of feathers.
We did find somewhere to duck under and enjoy our lunches as the rain fell. And this was my favorite moment of the trip. Eating a nice lunch and observing the continuous loop of bird activity unfolding before our eyes. The Kites made another appearance among the hundreds of swallows and swifts. Nestor admitted that he wished he were a swift, myself a swallow. Other more grounded species appeared periodically, and we made sure to point them out.
Eventually we moved on, but we didn't make it very far before the rain pushed us under another shelter. We observed some more species from there, but capitalized on a passing van when the time came.
We rode just a bit more, and a new species greeted us upon our departure.
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
But the rain wouldn't let off. So our walk to civilization was wet and relatively uneventful, save for a run-in with some cattle and dogs.
Did you forget that it was the rainforest?
Before long, we reached a lodge that Nestor was familiar with: Bambu Lodge. Asking if I wanted to check it out, he ducked his way through a small trail entrance and towards a house. He approached singing in Quechua and was greeted by some old pals. We peered through the door and got in on their Fast and Furious 8 viewing. Nestor had seen the movie and remarked on how good it was.
After a while, Nestor asked if this was good, and I said sure, why not? He worked his magic again, and we were staying in separate full bunkhouses for the night for 1/4 of the price of the first night. They were neat bamboo structures with bathrooms, showers, beds, etc. Maybe I was foolish to not photograph our accommodations, but my mind was streamlined on the birding.
Which we did until nightfall. Lots of impressive hummers frequented the feeding stations, rounding out my day's lifers.
When night fell, we made our way for the guide/resident dining hall. While guests dined separately, we joked and chatted like old friends.
End of day lifer total: 34!
Sunday
Well, this is it. The last day in the jungle for me, for a long time probably.
And it's just raining with no sign of stopping. Still, we took advantage of our last bit of time here, seeking shelter and spotting birds when the rain slightly let up, and bird activity picked up.
In fact, it was my most speciose single checklist. More tropical Tanagers, Piculets, and hummers entertained us. The Piculet family was especially cute. Two parents and two kids showed up, and we watched their family lessons. Where to look for food, how to extract it? Follow our lead, kids.
Some of my favorite moments:
Seeing my North American buddies on their wintering grounds. It's always such a mysterious phenomenon. I saw species that I've seen in the yard in Georgia, including Broad-winged Hawk, Scarlet Tanager, Eastern Wood-Pewee, and Swainson's Thrush.
Swainson's Thrush
Plus this outrageous beauty... I picked up my binoculars to look at a little movement around a cluster of Verbena flowers. Expecting one of those nocturnal Sphix Moths, I was shocked to see a hummingbird. A very tiny one with a hilarious crest.
Rufous-crested Coquette
After hours and hours of hanging out around the lodge, the rain slowed. So we kissed our accommodations goodbye and headed further east yet, making our way to Pillcopata, locally know as "La ciudad blanca." Can you imagine why?
We don't make it too far before we hail a car heading back towards Cusco. And just like that we're packed into a full car, leaving the jungle.
In between my long bouts of napping, I reflected on the weekend. It was a great mix of being surprised by species that I know and blown-away by ones that I don't.
And the whole migrant thing is just incredible. They travel thousands of miles twice a year with apparent ease. Meanwhile, I'm forced to enlist the help of clunky pieces of metal full of other me's to get around, even now.
End of day lifer total: 13, End of trip species total: 149
It was a trip of milestones:
-Cusco #200 (Variable Antshrike)
-Perú #300 (Black-and-white Seedeater)
-World #800!!!!! (Little Ground Tyrant)
Well, this is it. The last day in the jungle for me, for a long time probably.
And it's just raining with no sign of stopping. Still, we took advantage of our last bit of time here, seeking shelter and spotting birds when the rain slightly let up, and bird activity picked up.
In fact, it was my most speciose single checklist. More tropical Tanagers, Piculets, and hummers entertained us. The Piculet family was especially cute. Two parents and two kids showed up, and we watched their family lessons. Where to look for food, how to extract it? Follow our lead, kids.
Some of my favorite moments:
Seeing my North American buddies on their wintering grounds. It's always such a mysterious phenomenon. I saw species that I've seen in the yard in Georgia, including Broad-winged Hawk, Scarlet Tanager, Eastern Wood-Pewee, and Swainson's Thrush.
Swainson's Thrush
Plus this outrageous beauty... I picked up my binoculars to look at a little movement around a cluster of Verbena flowers. Expecting one of those nocturnal Sphix Moths, I was shocked to see a hummingbird. A very tiny one with a hilarious crest.
Rufous-crested Coquette
After hours and hours of hanging out around the lodge, the rain slowed. So we kissed our accommodations goodbye and headed further east yet, making our way to Pillcopata, locally know as "La ciudad blanca." Can you imagine why?
We don't make it too far before we hail a car heading back towards Cusco. And just like that we're packed into a full car, leaving the jungle.
In between my long bouts of napping, I reflected on the weekend. It was a great mix of being surprised by species that I know and blown-away by ones that I don't.
And the whole migrant thing is just incredible. They travel thousands of miles twice a year with apparent ease. Meanwhile, I'm forced to enlist the help of clunky pieces of metal full of other me's to get around, even now.
End of day lifer total: 13, End of trip species total: 149
It was a trip of milestones:
-Cusco #200 (Variable Antshrike)
-Perú #300 (Black-and-white Seedeater)
-World #800!!!!! (Little Ground Tyrant)
Just think how much more you would if you didn’t sleep so much!!!
ReplyDelete!
Ha. I definitely would have puked...
DeleteYou can sleep anywhere
Delete