Week 3: El Boleto Turístico

As I'm writing, it's currently Week 4. And I just realized that I misspelled Latinoamérica in my title. I changed the blog name, but the URL remains forever marred by carelessness.

Last week we were given a tourist ticket by ISA. This all-access pass to some pretty sweet locations has shaped my week.

Monday

Riding the bus to school in the morning... I see the largest Bandada of dogs yet: a pack of about 14 strong dominating the sidewalk, heading westbound at a decent pace. The diversity of dogs here never ceases to amaze me. I see different kinds every day.

Selected for by the Peruvian Sierra

It would not be hard to write a day-by-day blog about dogs around here.

What else? Nuthin worth mentioning. I hung out in a café and prepared for a presentation that I had the following day.

Tuesday

Always a long one, but a bit more worth mentioning today. As for the presentation, I didn't feel very competent, but I'm comforted by the fact that others have come before me. I recall an episode in my buddy Louis' blog. He mostly inspired me to undertake this; he did the same in his study abroad experience in the spring. For those who are on a blog binge, here is a link to Louis':

https://potentialpolyglotblog.wordpress.com/2018/02/13/valencia-2018-routines/

A bit later on, I was dog tired. So I took a nap between classes. The plan? Wake up at 2:30, shower, and head to Qorikoncha to meet my classmates for a tour. At 3:40 my body jolted into consciousness. Had I really set my alarm for 2:30 am??

No time to wash up (though I needed it direly). I ran to the the street to hail a cab to Qorikoncha. During the transit, I made a new buddy: Dante. He insisted that I take down his number in case I ever needed him...

He dropped me a ways from the entrance, and I had to run to meet the group. Just a tad late.

Another tour of Qorikoncha, and I'm still learning heaps about its history. From there, I accompanied my classmates (all four of them) to la Plaza. We made a quick stop in a cool bookstore. Good thing that I didn't have much money because I would have spent it all. Of course I'll still come back and buy that place out.

As we broke into the game of Tetris known as la Plaza de Armas, I caught an agonizing view of a large Nighthawk. It was almost as if it wished to remind me of the business that I have to attend to in Perú. This mysteriously silent ghost represented the unknown: the richness in diversity that this country is dying to offer.

We then dipped into a market that was housed by a church. Our browsing necessities met, we headed for a drink and then split.

Wednesday

Wednesday I awoke with the a degree of ambition that challenged Napoleon and his ornithological star of a nephew. 

Papa Jesús knew that I had the ticket, and he wanted to show me three archeological sites near Cusco. Spencer wanted to join, so we made our way up to Saqsaywaman. Here, Spencer and I were blown away by the caliber of Incan construction as Papa Jesús walked us through theoretical explanations. At this site, the Peruvian version of Custard's last stand occurred, but the indians lost here.

Ruins of Saqsaywaman: Stones weighing in at hundreds of tons

Despite having been mostly destroyed by the Spanish several centuries ago (the Spaniards are really the villains of this tale), Saqsaywaman is really an interesting locale. Papa Jesús urged us to rodear.

Pre-slide

Apparently Incans and their young'uns used to play here.

Amphitheater

Proof of Our Presence

On to Q'enqo (pronounced as if Quechuans were prone to fur balls). This was a smaller site, but that doesn't deduct from its awesomeness. Picture a large monothilic rock with lots of channels and caves. Although the interior complexity of this limestone rock can mostly be attributed to weathering, Incans left their own touches. I would have liked to hopped up on top, but the opportunity did not present itself.

Navigating the Maze

Spencer Contemplating a Llama Sacrifice

The tour continues. From Q'enqo we wound up the mountainside, channeling through tunnels of impressionably towering Eucalyptus groves.

Andean Countryside

A quick stop at Puka Pukara (Red Fort) produced another lesson from Papa Jesús. From a roadside pulloff, we tried our best to imprint the panoramic views of high sierra and Incan fortaleza.

Strategically Situated

Papa Predicando

One more stop as we blew straight past Papa Jesús' meeting. Tambomachay: perhaps my favorite stop of the loop. Tucked into a serene valley near pristine, grassy peaks, Tambomachay was the bathing site of the Inka (King of Incans). Crystalline spring water trickled downslope as we passed through Polylepis groves. The sound environment was enhanced by hyperactive Conebills and House Wrens.

After a short walk, we arrived at the main attraction: an Incan construction that looked too perfect to be real.

Beautiful Baths

The Fountain of Youth

Time to head back to Cusco. The day has just begun. Shortly thereafter, I headed to ISA for class. I knew of a field trip in the afternoon, but was feeling too wearied by the prospect. A generous sandwich gift from a friend quickly made up my mind.

Let's head East.

So I joined a class (that I'm not in) and headed back towards Tipón. My zoo visit was in the same area, but we did not enter the archeological site then. Tipón is intense. Strong winds and intermittent showers seem to suggest the presence of Incan gods.

Impressive View from Tipón

An unbelievable arrangement of terraces complimented by exact irrigation systems caused us to stop and wonder. It would be pretty cool to see this site in active agriculture, but the park prohibits it. 

As we peered into the precisely managed canals, I was surprised to see small fish. Life finds a way.

Terrific Terraces 

Better than Legos

Precision

What Touch

Before departing, we toured the modest homes that Incan families once inhabited. Nothing too fancy, these structures attest to the uniform quality of life that Incan citizens were guaranteed.

Heading east again, we pass Lake Huacarpay, a body of water and reeds that may be my utmost priority in Cusco. I'm not leaving Perú until I see a Many-colored Rush Tyrant. 

But I was the only one with birds on my mind, so we continued past the hotspot, only taking time to appreciate the big picture. 

The Promised Land

We made a brief stop at the eastern frontera of Cusco, where Incan soldiers would have kept watch and welcomed pilgrims.

Imagine the Arrival

Backtracking a bit, we pulled into Pikillaqta (City of the Fleas). As you could imagine, there are a number of interpretations to this name. This site is almost equally appreciated by ground and air. By ground, one is impressed by not only the size of the city, but also its geometric arrangement and advanced structures. It's unique in being one of a few areas that the Inca did not improve upon. In fact, it seems like they just let it be out of reverence. Pre-Incans, possibly the Wari culture, are responsible for this remarkable locale.

One Day... It will Rise Again

North Perimeter

With Friends for Scale

The lateness of the day cast a wholesome warm light on the City of the Fleas. We took time to appreciate the reconstructed avenues and the unusual foundations of what used to be three story buildings. A lot of work is going into reconstruction here, and current archeologists all express the same hope for the future: that the following generations will have the funds and interest to continue this noble line of work.

The Day Ends

Finishing the loop, we made our way down the eastern flank of the town, where Rufous-collared Sparrows sought a bit of sustenance as the coolness of dusk set in. Among this gregarious crowd appeared a lemon with wings: Greenish-Yellow Finch. I was foolish to leave all my optics at home; I really didn't think that I could summon the energy to go on this excursion.

Runnin Down a Dream

My friend Eli made the walk out memorable as he provided a soundtrack for the departure: Cowgirl in the Sand. Was he talking about a girlfriend, a prostitute? Who knows? That's what makes it fun.

Think the day is done? Nah. Now we head back to ISA for some Bachata lessons. I just didn't dig it quite as much as the salsa lessons. Whether that was due to fatigue, the fact that it just wasn't as exciting of a dance, or a combination of both is up to someone else's discretion.

Then I grabbed some crepes with a group. They're really just like thin pancakes. We planned our attempt at the Salkantay Trek. Can't wait to write about that one.

I actually got a lifer today!

Thursday

Ever find yourself winded walking up a staircase? It doesn't take much to remind me that I'm at 11,150 ft above sea level. 

Thursday afternoon I enjoyed playing in the patio with Bobbi and Vella. Bobbi is the tail-chasing type. He also likes to stash pieces of trash and food in a little rock pile. His imagination is strong cause he spends most of the day outside and alone. But he's finding a new ally in little Vella.

Secret Hiding Spot

Persiguiendo

I'm assured that my soul was purified as I watched the two run laps around the warm patio. 

Walking around Cusco, I become aware that life here is enriched by epiphytic plants. How can you not be inspired by a plant that lives in the air and is content with staking out a spot on a powerline?

That night, I accompanied three ISA ladies to another event on the tourist ticket: the danzas at Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo. I hate to say it, but it felt a little cheesy. Kind of like I was in Branson, Missouri watching the Duttons. 

Even so, the music was played by a live band, and the sounds of traditional music were pretty neat. I kept hoping for them to break into a song from Three Amigos, but you can't always get what you want. 

A few well-placed bullwhips kept the crowd attentive.

Crossing Avenida del Sol, we were treated to these views of Qorikoncha at night. (By the way, Quechua is not a written language, so I can write it however I want). 

Corikoncha

Qurikoncha

Friday

It's been a jam-packed week. I decided to take it easy and work on the blog/ prepare for a long day Saturday.

Saturday

Saturday was really good. On my way to ISA at 7:30, I finally had some binocular looks at a nice Spot-winged Pigeon. Inside, I found my fellow ISA students rearing to go. Shortly thereafter, we boarded a nice karaoke-sytle bus, but this time we had two MC's.

We cut north across the Sierra to enter into a place like no other: the Sacred Valley. In a small town called Pumamarca, I glimpsed a Giant Hummingbird cruising between adobe structures and over local gardens. Definitely possible to mistake that one for a closely related Swift!

Keepin truckin. Within the hour we had arrived at our first destination: Awana Kancha. As we pulled in while listening to a quick lesson on South American camelids, something more pressing caught my attention. In passing a steep, exposed dirt face, I cued in on a medium-sized bird in rapid approach. As I watched helplessly from the moving bus, the bird clung to the side of a modest hole-in-the-wall. Passing out of view, I observed the bird enter the cavity.

We stopped. Forget captive Camels, I'm running up the road with my gear to nail that sucker. I pass a chill construction crew and succeed in avoiding careening vehicles. Reaching my stakeout, I am greeted by a boy on the other side of the street: "Hola Gringo!" Due to what must have been certain reprimand from his mother, he quickly exclaimed "Hola Amigo!"

How can I complain? I looked like a total tourist with all of my straps and stuff. I stared at that vacant hole for 10 minutes to no avail. But in the meantime I was entertained by busy Band-tailed Seedeaters and Peruvian Sierra Finches. A flyby Golden-billed Saltator spiced the pot.

From behind, I hear a familiar beat. The first song that I heard when I got to Cusco! What is the name of it!? I cross the street and pose my questions, but the girl, boy, and young lady at the store couldn't seem to figure it out, despite cycling through their music library.

I had to explain my going-ons. The young lady asked where I was from. I encouraged her to guess. ¿Francia? Not quite. I hope I'm nicer than a French person.

Then they passed around my bins and marveled at the sight of their familiar world through a different lens. There are many birders to be born yet.

With my 15 minute allotment nearing its end, I made my way back to the POI. Although we were there to appreciate and feed the Llamas, Alpacas, and Vicuñas, I found the bird activity hard to resist.

Band-tailed Seedeater

Giant Hummingbird: The World's Largest Hummer

The South American camelids are also cool. There are 4: The Llama (domesticated) and its wild form the Guanaco. Plus the Alpaca (domesticated) and its wild form the Vicuña. At the site were many Llamas and Alpacas, as well as a few Vicuña. Vicuña are pretty wily. The better be, having been hunted to near extinction.

Vicuñas at a Comfortable Distance

Those more Accustomed to Peeps

Is it a Squirrel? A Rabbit? How about a wild Visacha?

Once we completed our petting zoo journey, we hopped back in the bus and descended. A brief stop at an overlook and then down to the valley, where we passed over the Urubamba River.

On top of the World

Our next stop was Pisaq. While it didn't produce much in the way of birds, there were some interesting things to witness there.

Cooperative Caracara

The Holy Grail of Terraces

The Incans spent 100 years accomplishing this feat of agricultural engineering. Spanning an elevational gradient, these terraces both produced extra area for farming and enabled different varieties of crops to flourish in the distinct microclimates. Just imagine this site with active agriculture.

But there were other archeological interests here as well, including this seemingly normal hillside.

What's Going on Here?

A closer inspection with binoculars reveals that the hill is dotted with holes. A historical Incan graveyard, these tombs had been opened and raided in the past.

Vertical Graveyard

Shortly thereafter, we headed back down to the valley to our lunch site: Tunupa. As we unloaded from the bus, the guides looked at me and said "you're not bringing your camera?" Thank goodness they did because I was about to enter a bustling riverside oasis.

Tunupa: Pronounced Hea'-vin

But before I could lose my mind in the biota, we enjoyed a classy buffet lunch.

Reluctant to Leave

With a generous gift of 15 free minutes in the jardín, we made our way out to explore. Dashing for the river, a Hummer with an outrageously long tail caught my attention.

Trainbearer sp.

At the riverside, I finally nailed solid looks at Andean Gulls, some of which were quite handsome in their breeding plumage.

Grace Incarnate

Pretty Boy

Nearby, some modestly plumaged Ducks played the part of the ubiquitous domestic. But closer inspection revealed that they were wild Yellow-billed Teal!

A Teal on the Rocks, Please

One last memory before we had to go.

A lot going on here

Torn away prematurely, it was time to head to Ollantaytambo. En route, we came face-to-face with the real-life Cliffs of Insanity. One glance at these, and you think about base jumping and forget about its ridiculous perils.

Ain't but... One way out

This archeological park provided incontrovertible evidence of the Incan mastery of water. The town itself has not experienced much growth or change since the Incan last stand, and local peoples have pride in this legacy.

We wound through a market that recalled a tense game of Minesweeper. 

Precise Water Management

After entering the park, we scaled the staircases that hugged steep terraces. A Giant Hummingbird fluttered nearby, breaking the apparent dearth of avifauna at this time of day.

From the Bottom

Getting There

From our lookout, we could now appreciate the town of Ollantaytambo.

Notice the Incan Influence on the Opposite hill

We then toured an impressive temple, where near perfect slabs of rock drew people in like ants to a hummingbird feeder. From the temple, we could see the Incan quarry several miles away on a steep mountainside. What determination.

Heading out, a flyover Andean Gull blessed our departure.

With the day fading, we booked it to our last stop, Chinchero. Leaving the Sacred Valley, we climbed ever higher, winding around enticing mountain lakes and Humedals. The landscape was open, almost lifeless. But visibility was quite good, and it was nice to watch that Peruvian evening light set in.

Arriving at Chinchero, the capital of Andean textiles. We headed to an overlook to appreciate some more terraces and a portion of the Inca Trail. Standing upon a ceremonial space, the world was transfigured into a real-life piece of art. As Andean Flickers went about their business, we appreciated our place on this Earth.

Into a Paradisiacal Oblivion

Our appreciation of the moment was reinforced by our newly acquired knowledge that the construction of an airport nearby would soon produce irrevocable change.

We tried our best to savor the moment and create an untouchable memory as we made our exit.

Before heading back to Cusco, we witnessed a quick textile demo and had the chance to buy some high quality socks.

Back in Cusco, the crowd migrated to Chili's for a fair meal. I ended up ordering a Margarita that may not have been marketed as Powerade flavored, but it sure as hell was. Exhausted by the colossal day, we made our way to our respective homes for the night.

Four whole lifers on the day.

 Sunday

Like Friday, I took it easy. There was no outdoing Saturday's adventure. After church, we made our way to a restaurant as a family. We ordered massive servings of food, drank frutillada (a fermented strawberry drink), and played an outrageously long single game of pool.

The evening brought some relaxation and another animated movie.

End of the Week Reflections:

-There are a ton of cars here, but they are all full of people. It makes me think back to driving through Atlanta, where each several thousand pound machine is carrying one person and all their stuff (myself included).

-I am so happy that I my ears do not have to suffer the sound of lawn mowers and leaf blowers here. That being said, the car alarms here suck.

End of Week Lifer Total: 5