Week 11: Sentir el Viento

It's been a while since I took it easy. This week is characterized by little travel and a lot of rest. The slowed pace has allowed me to reflect a little more. We're also on the last page of our ISA calendar...

Monday

Must have been very normal.

Tuesday

We watched another movie at ISA. This one was called No, a movie about Pinochet's dictatorship in Chile. It wasn't that I wasn't engaged, but I was just really comfortable. I think I managed to sleep without losing out on the content.

Convenient Place for an Outlet

Wednesday

I realize today that I have been here for a long while. My computer hasn't been backed up for 75 days!

Soccer night! The group has grown to an impressive 15, and I believe it will continue to grow. We now rent the synthetic field for two hours. We rotate 5-minute games between three teams, and it is a blast. Today was tricky though, it rained earlier in the day, and we were slipping all over the place.

Thursday

After class, I came home and took a splendid nap in a strong rainstorm. Sheer delight.

Friday

Man I notice new things everyday. Like a little archeological site sandwiched between some buildings on La Avenida de la Cultura.

Later I saw a cool dog with dreads. But just on his left ear. I think somebody had to have done them, because they were well formed, twice as long as his ear, and only right there. 

More on dogs: I am so accustomed to seeing hoards of dogs daily that it's hard to believe the infrequency with which I saw stray dogs back home. When I did see one back home, an intent to bring it back to civilization often ensued.

That night, more karaoke. More fun this time though.

Saturday

Saturday was a day of exploration and seeking peace in the countryside. Papa Jesús, Anthony, and I let our inner kid out. P.J. had been wanting to head south from Cusco after hearing about my Huacarpay trip, and he offered to drive us all down. Well, finally it happened.

We passed by Huacarpay en route to San Salvador. One spot along the Urubamba River looked enticing, so we unloaded and headed to its banks. The River ran red as birdlife impressed my comrades. First to gain our attention were friendly Andean Swallows, but an elusive Bearded Mountaineer later came in to steal the show.

Nature was rejuvenating us. I felt like a child, and the world was my sandbox. It's that feeling I have back home when I go birding with my buddies and we end up goofing off in the woods. That day was the first that I experienced of such carelessness in Perú. Anthony and I skipped stones and looked for treasures along the River as Papa Jesús pointed out exciting birds from his higher perch.

Spanning Continents (Three, right?)

Anthony with the glee of a child

Papa Jesús Light as a Cloud

We wound our way further south, and the scenery was just otherworldly. Steep rockfaces with diagonal striations rose from the far bank, and spanish moss-type epiphytes covered their sheer walls. Taking it in from the speeding car was magical: sensations combining in a way that beats any type of cinematographic masterpiece.

Paisaje

The Mighty Urubamba

Strange Epiphites: Pictures only go so far

Encouraged by our finds, we pressed onwards to San Salvador. What a blessing to come across a feeding flock of Mitred Parakeets at eye level!

One of my favorite Peruvian photo series

We made a few more stops along the River, trying for Pygmy-Owls and adding species along the way. Hillsides were verdant. Families were intently attending their chacras near and far.

Eventually, we decided to head back and try our luck at the renowned Huacarpay Lagoons. Backtracking, we let down the windows and embraced the breeze. Man, what a perfect day. The Mama's and the Papa's did our talking, as we were at a loss for words. Actually, we just didn't need words. All the messages surrounded us. I mean, it was Perú.

As we made our way towards Huacarpay, Papa Jesús' inner Kyle Petty came out. Work zone? No problem. Professionals make their moves in congested areas.

We did survive the maneuvers to arrive at the next hotspot. Although it was midday, we worked the hell out of that place. We covered three observation platforms and wandered about the reeds. Using this tactic, we nailed all of the specialties, getting close looks, interactions, and photos. Cuis skittered this way and that as we pursued our winged subjects. 

Feeling that we couldn't possibly have better fortune, we called our birding day after adding our 30th species. The ride back brought some famous Oropesa bread.

Lunch with Anthony, P.J., and Gabby. My first Inca Cola taste. Not as bad as I thought actually, just really carbonated.

Then I got real sleepy. I dozed off on the ride back home. And when home, I elected to take a nap that lasted 14.5 hours and brought me to the next morning.

Sunday

That's right, my nap ended at about 7 am on Sunday. So I got ready for church.

Outside of church, I saw a first: a police officer sitting in the back of a cop car. Three officers in one car? Don't think I've ever seen that.

After church we ran a bunch of errands and ate some lunch. And remember how I mentioned a lot of rest? I took yet another nap to conclude my week.

End of Week Reflections:

-I miss my connection with the land; It's my way of making sense of the world. I try to learn as much as I can here, but there is still so much that I don't know. Biologically, Perú is a complicated case. I have virtually no idea what the highlands "should" look like, other than there must have been more Polylepis and less (no) Eucalyptus.

-The value of this trip has been on the mind lately. The combined experience of outings in classes is very educational. We often make connections and references between the classroom and real world. I feel like we'd learn so much more back home if we did the same for all of our classes. It helps you to see the world in a different light.

-I've got a special peace of mind here knowing that my phone will never vibrate outside of wifi. Back home, I would have these moments were I thought my phone vibrated, but it did not. It was just resonance from a passing truck or some loud music. Here, I feel that ghost vibration, but I know that I do not have to check it. Just a means of escaping the control that that little piece of metal, glass, and battery fluid wants to have on my life.

-This was my first week in Perú without seeing any new species... :(  The closest that I came was adding a new species for the department of Cusco: Andean Swallow.

Week 10: Chichería and the Return to the Jungle

Monday

Back at ISA again. What has happened since we've been gone? Well, Christmas has arrived. In force.

It's Beginning to Look a lot Like Christmas

What else? Well the rainy season is really kicking in. From my bus observation platform, I realize that the Cottonwoods are greening up and the small patches of lawn here and there are growing more vigorous and dense.

Tuesday

It's basically raining every day now. Man, today was a long one. I had not one, but two presentations.

After anthropology, we felt like we deserved ice cream. I've been eating a bunch since Iquitos... Got a week-long void to fill.

On my way home on the bus, Get Lucky was broadcasted on the radio. That made me happy.

Wednesday

Today especially I'm missing a few things. Driving and fishing come to mind.

Another bus anecdote:

While sitting and enjoying my usual quiet time on the bus (it almost feels like time-out sometimes), a group of ladies hopped on and greeted us with a warm and inclusive "¡Buenos días!" It took me by such surprise that I could not help but smile.

Soccer transpired in the evening. It's becoming a more routine occurrence, and it's honestly more fun every time. The ride home featured one of Papa Jesús' favorites: a James Brown/ Luciano Pavarotti duet of It's a Man's World:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gb-B3lsgEfA

That night at home, I witnessed a gem of Peruvian productions. Here's how the concept goes: people come to audition and perform as celebrity look alikes. I just lost it when I saw "Jim Morrison" singing "Touch Me."

The Likeness is Just Uncanny

Thursday

A wild one for sure. Also a day of Georgia fans and coincidence.

 I got to the point of slacking off that brought me back to my early days in Cusco, when everything was new and mine for exploring. School was in the peripheries, the unknown was at the forefront. 

With that in mind, Marissa and I headed to the historic center to search for a baby gift for our professor. En route, I encountered a somewhat less passionate Georgia "fan."

A selfie please?

Our visit to the market was extremely successful, and we made it back to class in time.

Entering the house for lunch, Papa Jesús could not have made a better choice with a Mark Knopfler/ Emmylou Harris youtube mix. It ended up evolving into a Saturday Night Fever/ Bee Gee video binge.

I can't think of a better way to prepare for the upcoming Anthropology final exam. Yes, it's our last class and it's capped by an exam. But what's more noteworthy is the fact that our professor offered to take us to one of Cusco's most legitimate Chicherías.

What is a Chichería? It's like a bar/ social place where lots of Quechua traditions are still being observed. The name and concept revolves around the ancient drink known as "Chicha." It's a fermented corn beverage that was sacred to the Incas; they often offered it to their gods.

Ironically, this Chichería was out of Chicha. So our professor, his colleagues, and we students all went with a humorously large glass of frutillada, that fermented strawberry drink that I had a previous experience with.

Then Spencer and I dined down on our inaugural Cui (guinea pig). It reminded me of a mix of squirrel and pork wrapped in partially photo-degraded plastic.

Then the Pisco shots began, as Edgard searched for honest evaluations of the class. Man what a time. I felt so much belonging and contentment at that place.

But the night was young. We said our goodbyes and thanked Edgard for an awesome and enlightening semester. And for his truly inspiring lectures. Then we let our hair down and pinned our ears back. 

From there it was time to head to Spencer's newfound sports bar for a night of football viewing, darts, foosball, fellowship, and of course drinking. Our other buddies arrived. At one point, Laurel (in the middle of my quail hunting demonstration/tutorial) pointed out yet another dude with Georgia memorabilia.

What followed was something that I had hoped, deep down, would happen to me in Perú. But it's also something that cannot be forced. 

Springing out, I asked if the two dudes spoke English. But one look at the way they dressed and their familiar way of speaking had already suggested so much. A few connections later and I realized that I was talking to a man that I had already known by proxy. A fellow birder, a man who had been active on GABO and at my go-to hometown hotspots, Pendleton King Park and Lake Olmstead. 

What a sec, what!?

Fellow Augustan/Birder

Friend from Columbus

I retuned to the bar with their contact info and a perplexed/thrilled expression. For the next few minutes, I relayed the tale of my great fortune to everyone. 

Spencer's promise of dirt cheap Tequila lures us to another venue, where we are in fact greeted by a shot ski.

Next is a new discotheque with live music. We danced the night away until we could bear no more.

And this is where the night took us: a 2 am meal on the sidewalk.

Where else would you wanna be?

Friday

Ha. I don't feel so good. I rise early to pack my bag, but it's all happening in extreme slow motion. I don't want to upset the fragile equilibrium of my brain. 

Damn, I'm going to the jungle today. With ISA. Puerto Maldonado.

After a quick breakfast, I jump in a cab to the airport. What a beaut it is outside. My status cannot possibly foil the idealess of the morning any more. Traffic is bad. A white cat perches on a windowless windowsill three stories up in a building.

I arrive a little late at the airport, where my fellows are waiting. Wow, we look like shit. At least we're all in the same boat, destined for the same plane.

Before long we're on the ground in a new department: Madre de Dios. I feel a little better for having slept on the plane. We hop onto our shuttle and head for the city of Puerto Maldonado.

First impressions: cleaner than Iquitos with less traffic. I'm not getting that sense of sprawl that I read about before coming. But a several-month long hiatus is broken: I hear my first Peruvian House Sparrows! Wow, they're a long way from their Middle Eastern homelands.

We grab ice cream, and then things happen like clockwork. We shuttle to the ferry dock, hop on a ferry, and make our way to the lodge before noon. We flow with the mighty Madre de Dios River until we've arrived at our stay: Monte Amazonico Lodge. 

Milky River

I'm ecstatic to see my first Greater Yellow-headed Vulture float overhead. We pass by the largest trees that I have seen in Perú. Behemoths with many stories to tell. But there's little time to admire. We must grab lunch at the open-air dining hall, put our stuff in our bunkhouses, and report back for a trip to Monkey Island. Why does it seem like Monkey Island is a motif that spans multiple continents? This isn't my first Monkey Island.

An abandoned rehabilitation/ ecological experiment, this island is inhabited by Squirrel Monkeys, White-faced Capuchins, Brown Capuchins, and their hybrid offspring. All in all, I think there were about 30 individuals on the island. The Squirrel Monkeys were my favorite; the Capuchins came in to take our fruit offerings.

Young Capuchin

Mono Ardilla

Later in the evening I birded around the lodge, climbed a big observation tower with Spencer, and ate dinner with the group. The night brought a Spectacled Caiman cruise. It was very successful: we saw lots of a variety of sizes. I periodically dozed off under the breathtaking expanse of stars.

Evening on the Madre de Dios

End of day Lifer total: 6

Saturday

We were encouraged to go to bed early the night before, and I'm so glad we did. Breakfast at 4:30. On the River by 5:30, heading to the mega-diverse Tambopata Reserve, an expanse of jungle accessible only by boat.

Our first sighting of interest is a group of lazy Howler Monkeys: the first I've seen in the wild. Down the trail, we reach a special tree. Hollow for having overtaken another tree at some point in the past, it is possible to crawl through its heart. Of course we all do it, squirming through one at a time. For some, a nightmarish claustrophobic episode, for us, a jungle rebirth.

Along the way we experience the gallery of Mauritia palm swamp, where two species of Macaws command the habitat.

Lessons in Nature

Down the trail, we reach the fringes of el Lago Sandoval. Our two guides direct us through the flooded forest in canoes until we reach the paradise that awaits. Open water.

Young Black Caiman

We take turns paddling and soaking up the tropical sun as numerous ornithological wonders captivate us.

Sunbittern: an enigma and new favorite

Eye of the Neotropic Cormorant

Lazy Neotropic Cormorant

Hoatzin: A Prehistoric Bird born with Claws

Rufescent Tiger-Heron

Rounding the edges of the old oxbow lake, we made our way for the shade. As we rested in tranquility, Plumbeous Kites and a King Vulture dominated the sky.

In the distance, Giant River Otters, an endangered species, were making their way across the lake. It was time to chase them. We arrived just in time to get a good sense of their charismatic personalities. They clambered up a tree trunk, vying for a king-of-the-hill position.

A Playful Beast

Satisfied, we left them in peace and sought after our own Otter lifestyle. We crossed the open water, made landfall, and threw ourselves into the lake's welcoming waters. The next hour or so was spent goofing off, tossing mangos around, and flipping off of the canoe.

It was only 11ish by the time we hit the water again, but it felt like 5 pm. Our bellies hungry, we completed the circuit and made it back to our launch site.

We made our way in a light drizzle. The slick mud trail claimed many students on the way back, but the promise of ice cream made defeat impossible.

We left the preserve at noon to head back to the lodge. We ate a quick lunch in preparation for the zip-line/canopy tour.

Now I've done a few of these before, and it seems like the further south you go, the more relaxed the atmosphere is. We donned no helmets, and students were sent off before guides. We arrived to some platforms before any professionals. BUT, we survived, and it was really fun.

We scaled a tower to the first platform. From there, we made our way one-by-one across the sky bridge. On the next platform, we all adored a pair of Amazonian Pygmy-Owls at eye level. 

Then came the zip line portions, which were thrilling and rapid. As we waited on the platforms, we took in the sounds of the Amazon, the most distinctive of which is that of the Screaming Piha, a bird that cannot be missed in any Amazon Rainforest documentary:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY_GrQL8W_U

The tour was pretty short, but it was enjoyable. It wasn't long, though, before our next activity: kayaking. We piled in the motor boat to be hauled upstream. In our new tandem kayaks, we paddled hard upstream for a while. Then the motorboat came up and told us to turn around, despite having not reached any sort of landmark.

With the current at our backs, the return was more relaxed. Flying pencils flew overhead as a flock of a new species of Macaw, Chestnut-fronted, made its way upstream.

As we neared the lodge, we splashed the other boats and then hopped in the river to float alongside our kayaks.

It's hard to get one's fill of water when in the Amazon. So, like any rational students, we made our way to the pool upon our return.

Then came dinner. But if you think we're done with this marathon of a day, you are mistaken.

After dinner, we embarked on our night hike. Critters abounded.

Snake Sp.

We also located some Tarantula nests, which we messed with to see some action.

One game of doubles pool later, and it was time to go to bed.

16 lifers on the jam-packed day.

Sunday

We have to get out of here early, so I get up at sunrise to do a bird-around. Here are some of the fruits of my labor:

Black-billed Thrush

Barred Antshrike

Peek-a-boo Yellow-browed Sparrow

Blue-headed Parrots

After breakfast, we bounced. I snagged a few more Hoatzins as we neared Puerto Maldonado.

Return to Civilization

As we grabbed ice cream on the way out to maintain congruency, I saw one last jungle lifer.

Then I was asleep on the airport floor. Takeoff ensued.

Within 30-45 minutes, snowcapped mountains appeared in the windows.

Then we were in Cusco. Just like that... An hour between the high Andes and the Amazon.

7 life birds today.

End of Week Lifer Total: 29

I achieved my 200th bird in Perú on this trip!!!!  Streaked Flycatcher

This jungle trip in general was more authentic than Iquitos in a nature sense. Iquitos was really more about the city experience, which we wanted nothing to do with in Puerto Maldonado.

I really didn't realize until recently how close we were to Bolivia: 25 miles as the Macaw flies.

Week 9: From Amazonia to Lima

Monday

Again I wake up in the Amazon, but this time with a jolt. I'm tired of being locked up in this place; I'm determined to get out and about today. So at 7:15 I wander outside to observe as unfamiliar species go about their morning routines, one of which is an immature Snail Kite---Sweet lifer----.

Marissa comes to join me and chat as we wait for Spencer to rise. Meanwhile, endless waves of White-winged Parakeets fly overhead. Their morning voyage will be followed by a complementary evening retreat: the comings and goings of these tropical birds being a mystery to me.

Eventually he does, and Claire escorts us into town to find a pool. Once there, she leaves us to relax in the water and climb the towering series of observation platforms that provided a view of the Amazon River behind Iquitos' busy channels of life. 

We passed the hours at the pool's edge before we decided that it was time to hail a mototaxi back to Belén.

So I mentioned that Iquitos did not have many cars. Instead, it's populated by these three-wheeled mototaxis. They're like motorcycles attached to those little bike trailers that parents pull their children in. It's an exciting ride, especially with the three of us jammed into the bench. Since the taxis are so small, several can fit in one lane. Every launch from a stoplight is mayhem. You may find yourself inches from another moto or squeezing between a giant petrol truck and oncoming traffic. It's like living in an Amazonian blend of Tron, Tommy, and Mad Max.

Surviving the never-ending race, we again arrive at Belén. Each of us wants to make some purchases, so we wind our way back through, finding all that we want and lots more that we don't.

We then spend a few relaxed moments at Malecon.

Iquitos Crew (por Marissa)

Goofin' Off

An Amazon sunset provided our free, God-given entertainment on the boat ride back to Padre Cocha.

Every One is Unique

Back in our neck of the woods, we hit up the main strip to grab dinner. I still wasn't in quite the eating mood, but I tried my best to chip away at a hamburger. As we watched beetles make crash landings on the porch of the establishment, two boys approached and began to make conversation in English. Patrick, the more outgoing of the two, immediately jumped into his rehearsed guide presentation, dropping facts about the Amazon, pointing us to the nearest facilities, and asking us about ourselves. 

His buddy pretty much stayed silent all the while. After Patrick's presentation, we commended his English speaking abilities and finished up our dinner. 

They ended up hanging around to walk with us wherever we were heading. So the five of us ambled down the road. Patrick intently absorbed all of Spencer's English expressions, one of which was "I'm single and ready to mingle." His buddy Harley hung back with Marissa and me to speak Spanish. He spoke of family, Padre Cocha, spirituality/religion, and other facets of Amazon life. 

They fared us well at our stop, and we parted ways, thinking about how friendly people in this part of Perú are. 

Four life birds today: STRIATED HERON IS WORLD #700!!!

Tuesday

Our last full day in Iquitos; Marissa and I decide to make the long journey to a reserve on the south side of Iquitos. We rise fairly early to make the most of the day.

While brushing my teeth in the morning drizzle, I look up to see young and handsome Mr. Snail Kite again.

Such a Specialized Bill

The two of us push through the light rain to arrive at the muddy port, where I witness a bird like I've never seen before.

Red-breasted Meadowlark

Stunned, I board the boat and head for Bella Vista Nanay. Next we hop on the bus for the long haul to the airport. We're really just winging it, but we have a vague idea of where we are going. So we get off near the airport and hail a moto for Quistococha.

It feels good to have some fresh air from the open-cab taxi. Well, it feels good when you cover your eyes from all of the dust that is so eager to leave the road's surface.

Once we hit the ground though, I recall my state of animation, which is lacking. Nonetheless, we pay, enter, and wind down the paved path to the dolphin enclosures. Along the pathway are reconstructions of Amazonian myths with little descriptions. 

I blow right past them though, feeling drawn to some sort of relief. 

We join the group gawking at the pink dolphin doing tricks in return for a little food. Time after time its trainer sends it off, promising "una vez más!" 

Then we head to the Arapaima pen, but see no activity and head onwards. Next is the Giant River Otter, whose personality was infectious. He made laps around his watery enclosure and vocalized repeatedly.

What I remember next is some tiny deer, some Agoutis, some turtles, and some Capybaras. But by then we had spotted the lagoon, and our time perusing the enclosures was ticking. As we cut straight for the water and sandy beach, a brown puff flew in front of us. I'm thinking "that's an odd way for a dove to behave" when I realize that it's a freaking Pygmy Owl. Several feet away, below eye level, just looking around. Back from his sally, I snapped some pics.

Much Smaller than it Looks

That and some stunning butterflies (well, we thought so; they're actually diurnal moths) pepped me up a bit, but I still crashed as hard as a paragliding elephant onto that beach, where I laid until it was time to go.

Marissa and I then motored back to town, thinking that we were going to rendezvous yet again with Ammi, but we did not. Instead, we chilled out in a juice bar with A/C until our next commitment.

Our next commitment was to meet up with Spence and Claire at Bella Vista Nanay for an evening cruise on the Amazon. But not before we spotted an unexpected Peregrine Falcon circling overhead. The hemispherical exchange is almost complete.

Peacefulness

We were also dolphin hunting. 

But first we just really motored around. We saw the back side of Iquitos, where an extensive lumber yard displays some of Amazonia's finest. And I just couldn't help but think back to something we saw at the mariposario: "The Amazon is the lungs of the Earth; 20% of atmospheric oxygen passes through its trees." Too bad some of those trees have to pass through the market...

Circling back, we observed a combine harvesting rice on an island between the Amazon and the Nanay. Then we broke into open water and cut the engine. The captain began to knock on the stern of the boat, hoping to attract these mostly-blind dolphins.

Some began to surface and then I saw one just launch out of the water, unprovoked. What a wild looking beast, almost neapolitan: 1/2 gray, 1/2 pink.

A little more cruising and then we headed back to Bella Vista. The three students unloaded while Claire continued on with el capitan. We found a nice restaurant and took our time as the sky opened up. But we couldn't wait in there all night, so we exited in the light rain. 

What followed was a very memorable final experience in Iquitos. Marissa hailed a cab and bargained for a cheap ride. What we were treated to was worth volumes more than we payed. 

I huddled in to seek shelter form the rain, but quickly spotted some indications that we were in for a ride. I made eye contact with Spencer and we both remarked "this thing is rigged to bump." Shortly thereafter, the moto burst into "Another One Bites the Dust." As the mashup continued, we sang and danced (as best we could) along. Our underglow painted every puddle in a neon hue.

Unfortunately, the pimped ride ended when we reached Bella Vista Nanay. Back at Padre Cocha, we packed and took it easy in observance of the early departure.

Adios Madre Selva

4 Amazonian life birds today.

Wednesday

HALLOWEEN

And boy were we in for a unique one.

Up fairly early, we split, leaving Claire and her odd habitation behind. Leaving Padre Cocha, we passed the elementary school, were parents took pride in their meticulously costumed chilluns. Flying pencils, or more accurately Fork-tailed Palm Swifts, buzzed overhead as we made our grand departure.

We took the long way to the airport via bus, but by some miracle we did make it. 

Before long, we were in the air. Below us stretched the mighty Amazon jungle, with its infinite oxbows. Hydrology from the air is interesting; the coloration of the water is dependent on the state of the flow. Within the oxbows, settling had occurred, and the water took on a tannic look. In the mainstream, meanwhile, suspended particles contributed to that milky look that the Amazon and its tributaries are known for.

Sinuosity

Teardrop Oxbow

It wasn't long before we were in Lima, but it was for long that we were in Lima. You see, the airline booked our connecting flight with no time to spare, and it was impossible to pass through Lima security and make it on time to our next flight.

Fortunately, LATAM understood, and not only did they understand, but that felt like they owed us something. Something like two meal vouchers, a transportation voucher, and a hotel stay.

We burned through our meal vouchers as we observed and commentated on the festive costume wearers in the airport.

Then it was time to make the commute to the hotel. I asked the driver how the hotel was, and his response was super modest. We're talking the 4-star Atton at San Isidro. We were not properly dressed or behaved to be put up in a place like this, but what the hell.

En route, I spotted some new Lima birds, including the pet shop worthy Saffron Finch. I had previously thought that the Greenish-Yellow Finch of the Sierra was like a lemon with wings. I must demote it to a flying yellow bird. The Saffron Finch is the true lemon with wings.

We also ran into the Keymaker.

Did you say Deja-Vû?

References aside, this part of Lima was surprising. I mean all I had heard from Cusqueños was that Lima was nasty, full of trash, and dangerous. Maybe so, but we never got to see that. We passed large and inviting parks, clean streets, and large buildings. Everything that I saw had a SoCal feel. In class the following week, we discussed how Miraflores and San Isidro were not exactly representative of the metropolis.

The hotel was too unbelievable to describe. And they gave us three separate rooms with twin queens and an awesome bathroom! I bathed like I'd never get the chance again. But I was still feeling really slouchy, so I missed out on dinner and drinks with Marissa and Spencer. Instead, I watched Spanish adaptations of the House of Wax, Gremlins, and Poltergeist.

Hotel View

3 Lima lifers.

Thursday

A tacked on day to our trip, we should have been home by now. But none of us were complaining. It's the first of November, and I'm in denial. Did Iquitos really happen? Are we really in a **** hotel? Has it all been just a fever dream?

We took advantage of our free hotel breakfast, which was delicious, and met our ride outside. This time we made our flight and all.

Then we were in Cusco again. Farewell buddies, it's been a wild ride.

I gotta get better. No more putting it off, time to go to the doctor.

So Papa Jesús and I head to a clinic, get some meds, and grab lunch.

Friday

Really from Thursday afternoon to Sunday I spent my time recovering, lying in bed, and watching movies. I did have to suffer three days of butt shots. That can't be the only way to get that fluid into my body; it just can't be...

Saturday

More recovery, sleep, movies.

Sunday

The eve of reality, my last day of rest.

End of Week Lifer Total: 11

Week 8: Welcome to the Jungle

I can't believe it's week 8... My time in Perú has surpassed the halfway point.

Monday

Uneventful...

Tuesday

We had another film viewing at school: También la Lluvia. It was a good rewatch for me.

But I've been feeling a little under the weather since Machu Picchu. Back home, Papa Jesús encouraged me to chew some ginger root. That was a strong and unusual sensation.

Wednesday

Routine.

Thursday

A month and a half of planning (most of which involved keeping our plans open) is beginning to manifest itself. Time to hop on a plane with two undaunted students, hardened and bonded by pizza challenges. Originally we were greater in number, but only three of us had the heart to pull through.

The plan is to head to the department of Loreto, in far northeastern Perú. Here lies the city of Iquitos, the largest city in the world that is not accessible by car (only by boat or plane).

In our case, it's accessible by plane. First from Cusco to Lima and then onwards to Iquitos. Cusco security was so lax; I passed through with a multitool and a full bottle of water.

Needless to say my knife found a new home in the Lima airport security safe holding.

Flying out of Lima was really wild. Fog from the cool Humboldt Current blanketed the city's expanse. Light generated from inward and produced a warm, glowing dome. In some places, visibility was clear, and I saw the surface of the Earth like a NASA night map.

The coast was laced in gold strings of unobtrusive light. Where civilization met the infiniteness of the sea there was a clean demarcation. Cool darkness and warm, inviting light. All from overhead.

Dreamy Lima

Shortly thereafter we were in Iquitos: Amazonia. That night we took a long taxi ride in one of the few cars in Iquitos (I'll explain later) to the far northern part of the city, Bella Vista Nanay. Here, we encountered our host and took a night cruise to our new home, Padre Cocha. Claire made sure to point out how tired I was as she welcomed us to her home.

Friday

A day of orientation. 

Our gang of three took a stroll down the dirt road in the morning. 

Orange-backed Troupial

Later, Claire showed us the ropes. We went into Iquitos, learned how to hop on the boat, and navigated to the city's own Plaza de Armas. For breakfast, we ate at this Texas restaurant (The Yellow Rose of Texas) that attempts to harken to the Lone Star State, but uses some odd english phrasing that brings you back to reality. And the bar stools were pivoting saddles.

As we enjoyed our light breakfasts, Ammi (my host sister who now lives in Iquitos) dropped by to say hello and collect a package that my host parents sent with me. She is super busy working at a girl's home, so it was the only time that we met up.

From here we went to the renowned Belén market. It was perhaps one of the most oxymoronic places that I have ever experienced. Belén directly translates to Bethlehem. Although I have never been to the Middle East, there are several key distinctions that I imagine exist between the two. They may share a name, but I doubt Bethlehem is comprised of makeshift storefronts where vendors offer mounted fish and butterflies, medicinal plants, clothing, automotive odds and ends, raw meat, produce, and children's shoes. I also doubt that the streets are full of valiant and conditioned Black Vultures.

We followed Claire's swift lead as we traipsed across expanses of stinky sludge and fish vertebrae. Eventually we wound on down witch's street. If anyone doubts the myriad applications of plants in medicine in Perú, I recommend you take a walk down this avenue. 

Our foreigner senses thoroughly perplexed, we headed back to Padre Cocha for the evening.

After a Big Day

Once at the house, I attempted to take a nap. The structure was a mostly open-air house with several rooms, a large communal space, and a separate bunkhouse. The rooms offered protection from above, but the outside conditions dominated inside as well. We slept with bug nets and the option of a fan. As I tried to doze off, otherworldly Cacique sounds, noisy chickens, and neighbors' voices seeped into my room like an overpowering scent. What an interesting nap environment.

A respectable 18 lifers on the day.

Saturday

Late morning we departed the camp for the Mariposario, a butterfly farm/animal rehabilitation area within walking distance. It almost felt like a reverse zoo: we were fenced in and the other animals were roaming about. A guide greeted us and began to walk us through the process of raising butterflies. Before long, we were traded to an Australian dude who was volunteering.

The Australian dude really only wanted to talk about digging up worms. I shouldn't be unfair though. He was a nice guy with good intentions.

Pocket Monkey

Assertive Macaws

A Jaguar's Mesmerizing Pattern

Tapir: A Gentle Giant

On the way out, a Howler Monkey made sure to put on a memorable display. The sounds were so guttural and bizarre that it made me feel a bit sick.

From here, we took the long way back to "town." The intensity of the sun compromised the intensity of our vigor. We ambled verrrry slowly down the streets, stepping aside for the occasional motor car and conversing with local kids.

Back on the main strip, we hung out in a scenic tree and enjoyed our new laid-back tropical lifestyle.

Chivi Vireo Shares his Tree

Man, birds here are something else. They're so beautiful, and the diversity of iris color is remarkable. I've never seen shades of blue, tangerine, and yellow like this. All in the eye of a bird.

Yellow-rumped Cacique

We ended up going into town that night. On the Malecón boulevard (the main riverfront stretch of Iquitos), we gawked at street performers. Lots of magicians. The general atmosphere was electrifying and exciting, but as we neared our recommended restaurant nausea set in.

I wasn't able to enjoy dinner alongside Marissa and Spencer; I was sprawled out on a sofa in the restaurant. The extremely kind staff took it upon themselves to nurse me back to health. As Marissa and Spencer observed, everyone in Perú is a doctor. 

It was the herbal tea that really got my stomach up in arms. But then the waitress brought some pills from a local pharmacy that would stop me up for days.

Just 2 life birds today.

Sunday

A lost day. I was feeling absolutely miserable at this point. I just laid in bed, sweated, and dreamed the whole day. At one point I tried to read a bit of a paperback fiction book, but I only made it about 10 pages. Fever dreaming in the heat: I hope that it actually doesn't get worse here every day...

20 lifers this week.